It’s Wednesday and I’m sitting on the upper deck of a cruise
ship called the Royal Ruby on the Nile River near a town called Edfu. I’ve been
in Egypt since last Thursday. My schedule has been that busy and time for
travel logs that scarce. I will attempt to record my previous experiences post
haste.
The flight was uneventful, though long. Traveling from west
to east from the United States tends to be less stressful, for me at least. Or
maybe at the beginning of a trip I’m still rested.
The flights tend to be at night and the layovers short-ish.
A few hours in Newark. A short stint in Zurich. Long slogs through seven time
zones, six, actually due to Daylight Savings Time making the East Coast look
like it sank into the Atlantic. From Zurich via Swiss Air and into Northern
Egypt… which is lower Egypt. And then I’m WhatsApping my driver outside Cairo
airport.
Customs was a breeze. I got my e-visa in advance and waltzed
through immigration like an invading army. Napoleon the Last bringing
civilization and Yankee dollars to the uncouth. Actually I was more like a
clueless tourist. But I had dollars!
Cairo is a big city of about 20 million. My hotel, the Tolip
(Tulip) Golden Plaza Hotel, is disappointingly far from the old city with not
much to recommend it, being surrounded on three sides by busy streets and the
forth by a busy connector between two of those streets.
Pity. My first impulse in a new town once I check in and
steal a few towels and an ash tray is to walk around it and begin the process
of calibrating my internal GPS. The most scenic thing here was the Tivoli
Golden Plaza, an outdoor mall mostly populated with restaurants and a hookah
bar that looked intriguing. I ordered room service and turned in.
I mentioned that travel is easier going west to east. That’s
a relative concept. Like west and east. Traveling at night means you can sleep,
in theory. For me it means I can maybe cat nap while my head bangs against the
airplane window with all the rhythm of a heart attack. Assuming I get a window
seat. And the gremlin on the wing leaves me alone.
Once I was stuck in a center seat all night like Osiris
strapped in for his celestial voyage to the afterlife at a gate at Some
International Airport. Only I was going to a four hour layover followed by an
eleven hour flight to my ultimate reward. See now why I leave a day early?
For this reason I book an extra day before my trip
officially begins just to recover and maybe schedule a short activity the next
day. This I did.
I scheduled a walking tour of Muslim Cairo for the next day
as an extra. I didn’t have to meet my group until that night so I had the whole
day free.
Cairo is a big, middle-eastern city with busy roads to
nowhere and traffic cops in military uniforms and trucks overloaded with
produce, parcels, and people. Motorcycles, sometimes hoisting entire families,
sluice by on every side. Pedestrians appear and disappear like virtual
particles. I begin to wonder if
‘Crosswalk’ is a dirty word. Traffic violations sure aren’t. It’s
barbaric, but hey, it’s home.
Cairo is not the original city that was built here. That
would be Memphis, a city built along the Nile river around five thousand years
ago when the Nile was somewhere else. But the Nile used to have this awful
habit of getting frisky and roaming around. It’s as if your local interstate
highway whiplashed from time to time, sometimes to the east, sometimes to the
west, and sometimes completely wiping out the city you live in that it used to
peacefully pass by. And there are crocodiles. Were crocodiles.
Picture the poor mapmaker. He just created a cartographic
masterpiece worthy of Peri Reis when-Poof! West bank Memphis us now East bank
Memphis. Except for the parts that are now under water.
Cairo nee-Memphis is temporarily preserved from this fate
due to the Aswan dam upstream down south in Upper Egypt, which also explains
the lack of crocodiles everywhere below the dam. This whole Upper/Lower,
North/South thing confused the hell out of me until I got used to it. Which I
never did, by the way. Every place has its peculiarities.
My guide, Rania, brought me around the city with a car and
driver that disappeared and reappeared like the proverbial genie whenever we
summoned him to do either. Where do genies go when they are dismissed, anyway?
For a coffee, I guess.
We visited some ancient mosques, ancient for Cairo, which
was founded my Muslims in 969, or a little earlier. Baby. And a museum that was
the house of an English doctor and ‘collector’ who donated it and its contents
to the city in his will. Cairo, the whole city, new and oldish, is home to 20
million people plus 5 million who commute in to work here. Yes, the traffic is
as bad as it sounds.
One of the benefits of having a guide is that she can advise
you on what scams the locals have in store for you at the marketplace of
hagglers and charmers, jugglers and thieves.
“Now,” said Rania. “In this market whatever they ask you,
offer them half.”
Gotcha!
We pass through a gate bracketed by two towers into the old
city of Cairo. Stalls and suks inhabit the street fronts. Merchandise spills
onto the sidewalks where attendant merchants strive to hook you in by eye
contact. Tuk-tuks and horse drawn carriages push through the crowds, juvenile
street scarabs cling to their backs hitching a ride till they hop off at the
next corner while overburdened men hauling bundles dart around them.
At one street is a mosque and the old jail. Across the
street is a public well providing fresh water for travelers and their camels as
it has for centuries. A call to prayer issues from a handy minaret, disregarded
by the throngs below, people, animals, and machines. The blood of the city
courses on, unconcerned.
I Love me an Old City.
Rania brought me to a few ‘demonstrations.’ One of Papyrus
making and one of perfume. There I got a cup of tea and free use of the WC,
normally they expect a donation of ten Egyptian pounds, and invited me to
procure some of their wares. I got some perfume, with an extra bottle, two
decorative bottles, and a vaporizer for just ten pounds more, and a papyrus
painting of Osiris and Isis in a boat. Or maybe it was Anubis and someone?
Either way, it turns into something else when you turn off the light, also discounted.
They were locally made and would make good gifts.
Egypt is having a dearth of tourists, understandably
considering the horrors next door, so the economy is suffering. The dollar is
strong, getting 31 Egyptian pounds for one greenback. I haggled my way through
a few souvenirs.
And so the city surges.
A picture is worth a thousand words, ‘tis said. All of them
wrong. A million words cannot capture the beating heart of a single emotion,
though poets try as poets will. You need smell it like Chaucer on his way to
Canterbury or Christmas morning at Grandmas and savor it and rub it through
your fingers and your senses and into your hair and skin until it becomes a
part of you.
Over lunch I asked Rania what she thought about the
situation in Gaza. She paused, thoughtful.
“Egyptians don’t condone the violence in Gaza against
Israelis,” she said. “But we believe the response has been too much. Israel’s
response has been unjustified. We can’t accept that. The little I have heard
from the Muslim world speaks the same.
When I lived in Israel the people I met there were, well,
people. Beyond the superfluity and shifting sands of custom and culture, color
and coincidence, we share the same bedrock. Jews, Muslims, Christians.
Palestinians, Israelis. Working together. Resenting each other. Tolerating each
other. Fighting each other. We are, it turns out, the same. Some good, some
bad. Some great, some you wouldn’t turn your back on. Just like everyone else.
We are us, all of us.
Rania brought me back to my hotel after lunch of shawarma
and tea. One of my packages set off the scanner at the hotel entrance.
“Please come to the front desk,” the guard asked with
supreme politeness. Apparently I had been caught with contraband. ‘Do they have
room service in prison?’ I mused. ‘Or wherever security guard Anubis would
bring me?’
“You can’t bring this into the room,” I was told, also
politely.
The offending item was… “A coffee service?” I increduled. I
had bought it on the street. “We can check it for you until you leave.”
The service consisted of a brass coffee pot, a tray, two
glasses, and a brass stove. I haggled it down, but not quite by half.
‘Ah, of course,’ I self-enlightened. ‘They don’t want me
using the stove in my room. I might make crystal meth. Or worse. Coffee!’ I
wonder what the airport will think?
Contraband quarantined, I found the lounge where I was
meeting my group. I will be invading Egypt with three companions: Kit, and Pat
and Buzz, the latter of which at first appeared like a married couple but are
just traveling buddies. I wonder where their spouses think they each is? What
goes on in Memphis...
The next day began the official beginning of our adventure.
PS. For the record, Pat and John, his real name, worked
together and really are just traveling friends. I thought my story was better.
PPSS. It is now the last day of my trip, which is when I was
able to finish this missive. My flight leaves tomorrow at 1:05 PM. I am sitting
in the Hookah (non-alcoholic) bar enjoying a Banana Feteer, a Turkish coffee,
and a shiysha of some smokable substance. It is apple flavored.
You take what you get, I guess.